I’ve lived in California almost half my life and yet one of its most beautiful destinations, Santa Barbara, eluded me until only five years ago, when my older daughter was looking at its University of California campus and a year later matriculated there. Over these past few years, it’s been a flurry of car trips up and down Route 101 from Northern California, and I’ve come to know the Santa Barbara area quite well.
Our family made what could be our last trip in a while, when my daughter graduated this past June. As I stood on the deck of the cliffside house she would be leaving in just a few days, twilight ushered in a cotton candy sky, while waves gently crashed below, and pelicans swooned above. What a magical place to go to school, I thought. My daughter may never have it this good again.
It’s easy to fall in love with Santa Barbara, and the ocean is indeed an enticing lure. Whenever I visit, I try and start my day with a walk on the beach, even if I have to drive a bit. There’s something about the cool morning sand, crisp foggy air, and seagull chatter that is hard to resist.
But the coast on which Santa Barbara sits is only part of her charm. Santa Barbara, aptly called the American Riviera, is tucked neatly in between the Pacific Ocean and the Santa Ynez mountains to the east, where hiking trails, vineyards, and celebrity mansions abound. If ever there was the full package, Santa Barbara is it – a glittering town with world-class cuisine, culture, and history, wrapped in mountain and sea, the best natural beauty California has to offer.
As I pulled away from this part of the coast I have come to love so much, I reflected on my favorite spots and activities and decided to put them in writing so others can enjoy the best of this enchanting place. These are not all necessarily “hidden gems” – some are quite touristy in fact – but for me, they are the places I most enjoyed.
Stearns Wharf/East Beach/West Beach
Wharves don’t always get the appreciation I think they deserve. They have a reputation for being nothing but tourist magnets, and you could argue Stearns Wharf is no different. However, I always find myself gravitating to this area of town because it’s so darn pretty. The beaches that flank either side of the pier –pragmatically called East Beach and West Beach – are broad and flat, perfect for strolling or sunbathing. On East Beach, you’ll find people playing sand volleyball and enjoying barbecue picnics.
Cabrillo Boulevard, which runs along the waterfront, is lined with palm trees and hotels. It’s an area we particularly enjoy staying because you can wake up and head straight to the beach, no car needed. There’s a pedestrian-bike path, which is perfect for a morning jog or ride, and it’s close to downtown.
As for the wharf, it is the oldest working pier in California and walking out to the end offers stunning views back over the town with the mountains in the background. It’s a great spot to people watch, grab an ice cream, glass of wine, or even a meal. While the wharf is hardly a culinary hotspot (what wharf is?), the atmosphere is hard to beat, especially at sunset.
Santa Barbara Mission
Located on the outskirts of town at the foot of the Santa Ynez Mountains and known as the Queen of the Missions for its exceptional beauty, the Santa Barbara Mission was established in 1786. It is the tenth of 21 California missions established by the Spanish Franciscans and is the only one with twin bell towers.
Despite my conflicting feelings about the California mission system now that I better understand its complicated history with respect to the original people who lived in the state, it is without a doubt the town’s chief cultural and historical landmark.
I encourage anyone who visits Santa Barbara to spend some time enjoying the mission’s beautiful buildings and grounds, lush gardens, and views out to the Pacific. But be sure to do so with an appreciation for its historical context and for the Chumash people who once flourished here.
The Santa Barbara Mission is not far from some excellent and popular hiking trails, such as Jesusita, Rattlesnake Canyon, and Inspiration Point. You might combine a visit there with an invigorating trek that takes you into the Santa Ynez Mountains for stunning coastal views and even some waterfalls.
Downtown: State Street and the Funk Zone
Many would argue that State Street is just another upscale thoroughfare in an upscale town with upscale shopping and restaurants. While there’s some truth to that, it’s hard not to appreciate the neighborhood’s appeal, which has elevated even more since several street blocks have been transformed into pedestrian-only zones due to the pandemic.
What sets State Street and its environs apart, in my opinion, is its beautiful Spanish Mediterranean architecture. Rebuilt in this style after the town was devastated by earthquakes in 1918 and then again in 1925, Santa Barbara continues to cultivate a sophisticated aesthetic that features whitewashed buildings with red-tile roofs and Moorish accents like colored tiles and intricate wrought iron details. Visit Santa Barbara has a nice walking tour you can follow here.
You could easily dedicate a day to the downtown area, shopping distinctive boutiques, as well as name brands; sipping your way along Santa Barbara’s extensive urban wine trail; browsing local art galleries; and relaxing over a delicious meal. Food wise, there’s something for everyone, from charming pastry shops and hip brew pubs to five-star kitchens and casual eateries.
If State Street feels too mainstream, you don’t have to go far to discover Santa Barbara’s more eclectic vibe. Just off the east side of the main drag, between the ocean and Highway 101, is the Funk Zone, where converted warehouses and buildings decorated with graffiti set a distinctive air. You’ll find boutique tasting rooms, galleries, shops, and restaurants that cater to Santa Barbara’s more contemporary side.
Santa Barbara Botanic Garden
By their very nature, botanical gardens are almost always lovely. But I have to admit, Santa Barbara’s is a true stand-out. Strolling along its 5-1/2 miles of paths is like experiencing the entire state of California in just a couple of hours.
Situated on a hillside with sweeping views of both the mountains and ocean, the grounds of the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden cover a variety of climates and showcase the remarkable diversity of California’s flora and vegetation. The garden is divided into sections representing different ecosystems of the Golden State – canyon, desert, redwood, and woodland trail, as well as an authentic Japanese tea garden.
Visitors to the Botanic Garden can also participate in events that include guided walks, bird-watching sessions, book signings, lectures, and workshops on painting, photography, and gardening.
Arroya Burro (Hendry’s) Beach
While Santa Barbara is overall a dog friendly destination*, Hendry’s Beach (officially Arroya Burro Beach Park) is THE spot for people to bring their furry friends for a seaside frolic. About 10 minutes outside of town, its location is stunning, with towering cliffs that give it a more secluded feel. And if you’re not into slobbery canine kisses, not to worry, as only part of the beach allows dogs.
I like Hendry’s too because of its amenities. These include bathrooms, showers, a dog-washing station, and most importantly, an amazing beachside restaurant called The Boathouse. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more picturesque spot to enjoy a cocktail at sunset. Brunch here is epic, though be prepared to wait, especially on holiday or special occasion weekends like Mother’s Day.
*Check out the article I wrote for Visit Santa Barbara, A Dog’s Day in Santa Barbara, for more Fido-friendly ideas.
Maritime Museum and Santa Barbara Marina
I discovered the Maritime Museum (not to be confused with the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History Sea Center at Stearns Wharf, which I have not visited) under unfortunate circumstances – I happened to be in Santa Barbara with my mother during the devastating and deadly mudslides of January 2018, staying at an otherwise lovely hotel in walking distance of West Beach. We had one of those winetasting tours with a driver planned for the afternoon, but because the mudslide had closed part of Highway 101, it was cancelled, and I couldn’t venture too far from the hotel.
Feeling melancholy given all that was going on around us, I ventured over to the Santa Barbara Marina, where the Maritime Museum is located. The marina itself is a pleasant destination, with good waterfront restaurants, including the ever-popular Brophy’s. It is also the place to go for kayak rentals and to set off on a sunset cruise or whale watch.
The Maritime Museum, founded in 2000 by a group of fishermen, divers, and sailors, is a gem I hadn’t heard of before walking by it. One of the first things you encounter when you enter the museum is an actual lighthouse beacon that puts its enormous size in serious perspective. Packed into the 8,000 square feet of public space are well-organized and fascinating exhibits about the rich maritime history of the Santa Barbara Channel.
You’ll learn about the seafaring culture of the earliest coastal inhabitants, why many of the area beaches will leave your feet or flip flops sticky with tar (mayonnaise is the best way to get it off), and even the history of surfing and the evolution of the surfboard. There’s a section for little ones, too, making this a fun spot for the whole family.
Where to Stay in Santa Barbara
I’m not gonna lie, Santa Barbara is not a cheap place to stay; in fact, I find it more expensive than most other major California cities like San Francisco and Los Angeles. During a long holiday weekend or graduation for the university (always the weekend in mid-June), it’s not uncommon to pay $300 for a Motel 6! If you don’t want to pay an arm and a leg, avoid visiting at these times or consider staying in one of the surrounding towns, such as Goleta (where the UCSB campus is technically located), Summerland, or Carpinteria.
Suffice it to say, I was always on the hunt for a good deal in and around Santa Barbara and have stayed at a wide variety of hotels and Airbnbs over the years. Following are some places to check out that I divided roughly into two categories – “less expensive” and “splurge.”
Less Expensive Hotels
One of the first places we stayed in Santa Barbara was the pet-friendly Hotel Milo. Blending beach chic and Spanish-inspired décor, it has two heated pools, a free continental breakfast, and free bike rentals. The rooms are comfortable and clean, but what I really love about this hotel is its location on Cabrillo Boulevard across the street from West Beach. It’s also an easy walk to both the Marina and Stearn’s Wharf and a short bike or trolley ride to State Street’s stores and restaurants.
Half a block up from West Beach, The Castillo Inn is a quiet, upscale motel offering good value. Like Hotel Milo, the location is hard to beat, and in addition to their 20 charming rooms, they have one apartment/suite.
Lavender Inn by the Sea, located two blocks off West Beach, is an excellent choice too. They have spacious junior suites, and their nightly wine and cheese hour AND milk and cookies before bed are a nice touch. This is where I was staying the night of the mudslide. The staff went above and beyond to accommodate evacuated residents as the tragedy unfolded, and they provided a place for first responders to sleep and rest the next day.
On the other end of Cabrillo Boulevard, across from East Beach, is the Blue Sands Inn. Adjacent to the Funk Zone, this property has a younger, hipper vibe than the quieter and more traditional West Beach hotels.
Further away from the water, but in the heart of downtown State Street’s shopping and dining district is the iconic Hotel Santa Barbara. Between its fantastic location, historic charm, and modern comforts, this is probably one of the best hotels around for the money. The nearby Holiday Inn Express is also a great downtown value.
For an ultra-romantic weekend, check out the Bath Street Inn, a charming bed and breakfast that serves the most delicious meal to get your day started. Despite the Bath Street Inn not being in walking distance of downtown or the water, it is one of my favorite spots and worth the short drive to the beach. I love the residential neighborhood it’s in, as well as their evening wine and cheese social hour.
Before I move on to the pricier accommodations, I want to mention two hotels in nearby towns where you can sometimes get a slightly better deal. In Goleta, which is about 10 to 15 minutes north of Santa Barbara by the UCSB campus, Pacifica Suites has exceptionally spacious rooms with a homey feel. It is conveniently located by Highway 101 for easy access to Santa Barbara, and is also near the Santa Barbara Airport.
About 15 minutes south of Santa Barbara, in the laid-back beach community of Carpinteria, is a Best Western Plus that has been recommended to me countless times. It’s less than a mile from the Carpinteria State Beach, which is one of the nicest beaches around, is pet-friendly, and is conveniently located near Highway 101, shops, and restaurants.
Splurge Hotels
There are no shortage of places to splurge in the Santa Barbara area, but I’ve only stayed at one myself, the Bacara Resort in Goleta. Owned by Ritz-Carlton, it’s Mediterranean-styled buildings span 78 acres of coastal beauty overlooking the Pacific. It is a true gem, but you will need to drive everywhere if you choose to leave the resort.
In Santa Barbara, the hotel everyone raves about (including my travel agent mother in law) is the Belmond El Encanto. This classic destination, which has been part of the Santa Barbara social scene since 1918, is perched high in the hills (though not too far from downtown) with spectacular views of the American Riviera. Its property features secluded gardens, luxury rooms and suites, an infinity pool, and boutique spa. The Belmond El Encanto Dining Room delivers one the best dining experiences in Southern California.
At the Four Seasons Resort Biltmore Santa Barbara, you’ll experience oceanfront luxury on 22 acres of lush gardens. Right across the street is one of the area’s most beautiful stretches of coast, Butterfly Beach. Bury your toes in the powdery sand and scan the water for playful dolphins who often make an appearance here. It’s also not too far from downtown Santa Barbara and other attractions.
If there’s no room for compromise between luxury and location, check into Santa Barbara’s newest splurgy stay, Hotel Californian. Its 121 rooms couldn’t be more ideally situated for car-free enjoyment; it’s within a block of the ocean, the Funk Zone, and the train station. Gorgeously designed in Santa Barbara’s signature Spanish Mediterranean style with Moroccan-themed interiors and Andalusian accents, it opened in 2017, but incorporated and meticulously restored the façade of the original Hotel Californian, built in 1925 on State Street.