I didn’t learn about the French seaside town of Menton from a travel guidebook, magazine or social media influencer. I randomly picked it out on a map. Seriously. In 2019 I was planning a short getaway to the French Riviera from Milan, where my daughter was studying abroad. We wanted to be near, but not in, Monaco. I pulled up Google Maps, scanned the area, and voilà, I discovered Menton–a dot perfectly poised between Italy and Monaco.
Given its location, Menton offers an appealing blend of French and Italian culture. During the summer months especially, you’re as likely to hear people speaking Italian as French, and if you’re hankering for pizza and other Italian cuisine, you won’t have to look far.
The Pearl of France with a Squeeze of Lemon
Known as the Pearl of France, Menton couldn’t be a more pleasant base for exploring the region. This town of approximately 30,000 has more than 300 days of sunshine a year, an ideal climate for not only enjoying the beach but also growing lemons, oranges and other zesty delights.
Lemons are so prized in Menton, the town hosts an annual lemon festival (Fête du Citron) every February/March. During the two-week celebration, more than 200,000 people from across France and the world come here to join the festivities and view the magnificent larger-than-life sculptures made almost exclusively of citrus fruits. (Think Rose Parade in Pasadena, California but fruit instead of flowers!)
Photo Credit: Ville de Menton
A Brief History
While the site of Menton was likely inhabited as far back as the Paleolithic era and was crossed by the Via Julia Augusta during Roman times, the first written mention of Menton dates to a treaty from the mid-13th century when it belonged to the counts of Ventimiglia, a noble Genoese family.
In 1346, the town was acquired by the Grimaldi family of Monaco and stayed under their control for almost 500 years. In 1848, Menton and the neighboring town of Roquebrune seceded from Monaco in response to litigation involving taxes on–you guessed it–lemon exports.
Menton was then administrated by the House of Savoy until 1861 when the town voted for its annexation to France, something Nice had done the year before. Menton officially became part of France in the department of Alpes-Maritimes, where it remains today.
A Low-Key, Lower Cost Alternative in the French Riviera
What makes Menton so special in my opinion is that for all the wealth and celebrity that defines much of the French Riviera, it is utterly understated and unpretentious. In one of his guidebooks, Rick Steves described Menton as a “poor man’s Nice.” While those aren’t exactly the words I’d use, it is true Menton lacks the glitz and glam of other Côte d’Azur towns, and prices tend to reflect that.
After my brief visit in 2019, I couldn’t get Menton out of my head (or off my Instagram feed!) and made a vow that someday I’d return for a longer stay. Four years later, I made due on that promise.
During the summer of 2023 my husband and I rented a small apartment in Menton close to the beach and the train station. We stayed almost three months–the max allowed as non-EU citizens–soaking in the warmth of the Riviera, enjoying daily dips in the Mediterranean and exploring the region.
My Favorite Menton Experiences
Unlike Paris, or even Nice, there isn’t a long list of things you must see or do in Menton. Instead, it is the collage of experiences, people and places set within one of the most beautiful natural environments that distinguishes it. Following, in no order, are my favorite Menton experiences.
Meandering the streets of Old Town
Menton’s medieval center, or Old Town, perfectly reflects its sunny position (and disposition.) A cheerful palette of pastel-colored apartments rise from the sea to the mountains. Poking through the terracotta roofs are the striking yellow towers of the Basilica of Saint-Michael the Archangel, the largest and most important Baroque church in the region.
Old Town is hard to miss and a delight to explore. At the base of the hill, you’ll find restaurants, cafés and shops selling a wide range of regional souvenirs such as lemon-scented soaps, Provençal tableware, citrus-infused olive oils and more.
Heading uphill, you’ll come to a mosaic-paved square flanked by the Basilica of Saint Michael and another church, Chapel of the Immaculate Conception. Enjoy the nice view of the beach and the marina below before continuing up further through the charming and quiet residential alleys to the terraced Cimetière du Vieux Château.
Perched on the site of a medieval castle, with even more impressive views of the coast, this cemetery is the final resting place of the inventor of modern rugby, Webb Ellis, and is worth taking time to explore.
Strolling the Promenade du Soleil
More intimate and beautiful than Nice’s famous Promenade des Anglais, in my opinion, is Menton’s Promenade du Soleil. It is lined with casual seaside restaurants abuzz during the warm summer months, though considerably quieter off-season.
I took this photo on the Promenade du Soleil during my first visit to Menton in October 2019.
In the evening, while the sun drops behind the mountains, the promenade is the perfect place for a drink or dinner on the water. Even though sunset isn’t directly over the sea, the sky is magical at day’s end, taking on captivating hues of pink, peach, blue and violet.
As you approach the last of the waterside restaurants walking toward Old Town you can’t miss the Jean Cocteau Museum and its dramatic facade resembling a large set of menacing teeth. Unfortunately, this building remains closed due to a devastating flood that destroyed many of the works of the renowned author, artist and filmmaker for which it was named. But there’s a smaller museum close by at the Bastion of the Old Port that Cocteau himself restored, decorating the alcoves, reception hall and outer walls with mosaics made from pebbles.
My husband and I particularly enjoyed taking early morning jogs along the promenade from our apartment to the museum, about a mile, sometimes finishing with a dip in the sea or a beachside café and croissant.
Trekking along the coastal path
Following the Promenade du Soleil away from Menton, you can access a trail that hugs the coast all the way to Monaco.
At least part of this trail is called the Le Sentier Corbusier (Corbusier Trail), named after the influential (and controversial) Swiss/French architect. But if you look for it on All Trails, it’s simply called the “Menton – Monaco Coastal Path.”
The scenery is nothing short of spectacular. It’s a fairly flat and easy walk, with paved and rock pathways most of the way as well as spots where you can jump into the bluest, most pristine water.
While I have done the whole trek between Menton and Monaco, the best part by far is the section that wraps around Cap Martin to Buse Beach in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. You can stop there to cool off with a swim and then take the train back to Menton from the station above the beach.
Hitting the beach
Speaking of beaches, if you’re in Menton anytime between May and October, you’ll want to spend some time soaking in the sun and sea. Even at their most crowded in July and August, Menton’s beaches are some of the nicest and most pristine along the French Riviera.
On the eastern side, closer to Italy and near Old Town, is Sablettes Beach with its own boardwalk of bars, restaurants and water sports rental shop. Tucked between Menton’s two marinas, this is about as sandy a beach as you’ll find on this side of the French Riviera. The water is shallow and calm, making it perfect for little ones.
East of Sablettes toward Port Garavan is where you’ll find a nice selection of private beach clubs. They are considerably cheaper than many of the other beach clubs in the Côte d’Azur and not quite as bougie.
West of Sablettes along the Promenade du Soleil you’ll pass a long stretch of public beaches–with varying degrees of pebbles, rocks and sand–all the way to Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. A favorite among locals, Borrigo Beach, was only a five-minute walk from our apartment, so we spent a lot of time there. It has decent-size areas of sand and crystal-clear water that reminded me of Lake Tahoe in my home state of California.
TIP: Even at some of the sandier beaches, the ground underfoot in the water is often rocky, so I recommend bringing beach shoes or buying a pair in town.
Shopping at the markets
Between Old Town and the water is Menton’s covered food hall (Marché des Halles). Housed in a stand-out building of brick and brightly colored ceramics, it has been around since 1898.
While not the cheapest, it’s Menton’s gastronomic hub and a true feast for the senses. Open daily until 1 p.m. (with fewer vendors open on Monday), the market features a glorious selection of fresh cheeses, breads, meats, fish and pasta. Outside the building are more stalls with flowers, fruits, eggs, oils, herbs, spices and other regional specialties.
The market expands to the outside plaza every Saturday with bargains on clothing, accessories and household items until around 2 p.m.
If you’re there in July or August, don’t miss the summer night market featuring jewelry, crafts and paintings sold by local artists.
Exploring beautiful gardens
You don’t have to be an avid gardener to enjoy a leisurely stroll through the stunning gardens that grace Menton and the surrounding area. In the summer especially, it’s a nice way to escape the crowds and find a bit of tranquility and maybe some shade.
The easiest garden to access is Les Jardins Biovès, which is really a series of gardens running along Avenue du Verdun from the Promenade to the train and bus stations. In addition to plants and flowers, you’ll find interesting thematic installations and art displays at different times of the year.
For more of a formal botanical garden experience, I recommend the one we visited, Val Rahmeh Exotic Botanical Garden, near the Garavan train station. There’s a small entrance fee, but it’s worth it to see the wonderful collection of palm trees, bamboos, citrus fruits and tropical food plants throughout the property.
If you’re interested in getting more insight on the lemon industry and seeing the countryside, you can book a guided tour of La Citronneraie, a 16th century orchard that also has olive trees and a tropical plant garden.
Experiences Beyond Menton
One of the best parts about staying in Menton is the accessibility to so many wonderful places along the Côte d’Azur and throughout Provence.
Hardly a day went by during our stay when we weren’t hopping on the train to visit nearby towns like Monaco, Villefranche-sur-Mer, Cap d’Ail, Cannes and of course Nice.
The train ride itself is beautiful, and from several stations, like Villefranche-sur-Mer, you are just steps from the beach.
Easy connections to Italy
One of the advantages to being in Menton is its proximity to Italy and amazing (and relatively cheap) Italian food.
Ventimiglia is the Italian border town just a few miles away. It’s where you connect to the Italian train system for travel throughout Italy and a nice destination on its own.
The best day to visit Ventimiglia is Friday when there’s a huge market with hundreds of vendors selling food, clothing, leather goods, housewares and everything else under the sun. To be honest, I wasn’t overly impressed with the quality of goods at this market, but the prices and sheer quantity of items are hard to beat. Plus, it’s fun to be able to say you popped over to another country for the day!
Other nearby Italian towns worth checking out are Bordighera, which is next to Ventimiglia, San Remo and Imperia. Further afield but still within two to five hours from Menton, you can get to Genoa, Milan and the villages of Cinque Terre by train.
Hilltop villages in the Maritime Alps
When you need a break from the beach, or it’s no longer beach season, Menton is a wonderful starting point for visiting the many hilltop villages in the surrounding Maritime Alps. Most of these villages can be reached by using Menton’s local Zest bus system, but they are also connected by a network of walking and hiking trails that snake through the mountains.
Èze is one of the most popular perched villages in the South of France, and I wrote a detailed post about how to get to that tourist favorite here. As lovely as Èze is, I prefer the quiet charm of some of the lesser-known villages like Sainte-Agnès, Gorbio, Castellar and Sospel.
Our favorite village was also the closest, Roquebrune Village, the incredibly charming medieval center of Menton’s neighbor, Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. Perched above Buse Beach and accessible via a formidable series of stairways beginning at the train station, Roquebrune Village has one of the finest medieval castles in France, Roquebrune Château, which dates back to the 10th century. The self-guided tour of the castle and the incredible views of the coast are well worth the modest entrance fee.
Finally, a fun and unique way to experience the Maritime Alps is aboard the Train de Merveilles. This SNCF train route starts in Nice and travels high into the mountains stopping at quaint medieval villages along the way.
During the summer months, the train that departs Nice just after 9 a.m. has a guide on board who provides interesting commentary in French and English about the route and the incredible engineering feats that were employed to build it.
Best Times to Visit Menton
Menton’s high season is in July and August. The Mediterranean is at its warmest, and the town bustles with visitors. Between the ongoing festivities (including Bastille Day on July 14), night markets and outdoor entertainment, you won’t be at a loss for things to do this time of year.
The annual Menton Music Festival takes place during the last week of July and first week of August. Held on the plaza in front of the Basilica of Saint Michael, it features top classical artists performing against a stunning Mediterranean backdrop.
The downsides of visiting during the height of summer are the crowds and the heat. For that reason, I am a big fan of the shoulder season in June and September. The weather is still nice but not unbearably hot, and the crowds have thinned out.
May and October are also lovely but much quieter. During these months, there’s also a greater chance of having cooler weather and some rain. Many restaurants–especially those on the water–may also be closed this time of year.
Winter is low season and extremely quiet . . . except in late February when the gloom of winter is interrupted by Menton’s signature Fête du Citron. Started in 1934 at the height of the Belle Époque by a hotel manager to entertain his guests, the event now attracts more than 200,000 visitors for its citrus sculpture displays in the Biovès Garden, the golden fruit parade and carnival, and the night-time parade along the Promenade du Soleil.
How to Get to Menton
The closest major airport to Menton is Nice. Assuming you’re not renting a car, you can get from the airport to Menton by train or bus. You can read my guide to public transportation at the Nice Airport here.
By train
The SNCF regional train service known as TER (Transport Express Régional) is the easiest way to travel to and from Menton, and there are two stations in town. The bigger one, simply called Menton, is about a mile from Old Town and is the one used by most locals and tourists.
During our three months in Menton, we stayed in a more residential area that was only an eight-minute walk to this station. (Yes, I had that walk timed to the minute!) It could not have been a more convenient base for exploring the region, and at the time of this writing, the station was undergoing a major renovation that will transform it into a regional transit hub.
The other station, Menton Garavan, is smaller and unstaffed. This station is about a mile east of Old Town closer to Port Garavan. This is the last train station in France before the Italian border.
By bus
There are also buses operated by a regional public transportation network called ZOU! that provides service to and from Menton at the main bus station (Gare Routière), as well as other stops in town.
From the airport, ZOU! Express bus 80 will take you to Menton via Monaco, but it only runs a few times a day. It takes longer than the train and is also more expensive.
As a side note, the TER trains are also part of ZOU!, and I believe the goal is to eventually bring all of the various local transit brands under this one regional umbrella for a more seamless rider experience.
Getting Around Menton
Menton is easy to walk around, but there’s also an excellent local bus system called Zest. (Get it?) Zest has routes throughout the city (including service along the Promenade du Soleil) and into nearby towns, including several of the hilltop villages I mentioned earlier.
Zest also operates a cute little green bus called La Navette, which means shuttle. It provides daily service around town every 20 minutes from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. It is free to ride and operates 100% on electricity.
Note: Zest bus routes don’t seem to be included in Google transit directions, so if you’re thinking of using this system, you may want to bookmark their website.
As I mentioned in the previous section, Menton is also served by buses within the larger regional transit network, ZOU! You can find their routes and schedules here.
Tip: One of the advantages of bus travel is that buses go places trains can’t. You’ll see buses traversing all three cliff roads, or corniches (low, medium and high), so if you’ve always wanted to drive on these famous roads in the South of France but don’t have a car or are afraid to drive yourself, the bus is a good, safe way to experience them.
Where to Stay in Menton
While there are plenty of apartments to rent in Menton, following are some recommended hotels:
Hôtel de Londres: This is my top pick. Our friends stayed there when they came to visit us and had great things to say about it. There are 27 rooms and a lovely outdoor space with a Mediterranean garden and bar. It’s conveniently located on a quiet block between the town center and the main train station, and it’s only one block from the beach–the perfect location!
Website: www.hotel-de-londres.com/fr
Best Western (two options): I have found that Best Westerns in Europe are much nicer than those in the U.S., and in Menton there are two good choices, including one in the town center, Hotel Méditerranée. While not right on the water, it’s only a three-minute walk, and there’s a nice panoramic terrace with lounge chairs.
Hotel Méditerranée website: www.hotel-med-menton.com/en
The other Best Western property, the Premier Hotel Prince de Galles, is on the Promenade du Soleil heading toward Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. While more removed from the town center, it has rooms with beautiful balconies overlooking the sea, making it an ideal spot for enjoying easy access to quieter beaches, stunning sunrise and sunset views, and walks along the promenade.
Premier Hotel Prince de Galles website: www.princedegalles.com
Hôtel Napoléon: If you prefer to be on the Garavan side of town, this hotel is a good choice. It’s located between Sablettes Beach and the Garavan train station and is about a 15-minute walk to Old Town. With fresh, modern decor, the 44 rooms and suites in this hotel have nice views of the sea, mountains and gardens.
Website: www.napoleon-menton.com
Hôtel Lemon: For travelers on a tight budget, this is a good option. Their 16 rooms may have more basic amenities, but they’ve been decorated using fresh, citrus colors for a cheerful and homey feel. While the hotel is about a mile from the town center, it’s only a five-minute walk to the train station and a seven-minute walk to Borrigo Beach, a local favorite.
Website: www.hotel-lemon.fr
1 comment
Great article, well written and very informative!
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