The first thing I did when I arrived in the town of Varenna on the eastern shore Lake Como was stake out a café as close as possible to the water. While I was savoring my risotto and glass of prosecco, I researched opportunities for hiking at Lake Como – in part because I love to hike wherever I happen to be, but also because I thought it would be interesting to see Lake Como from above.
Just an hour from Milan, Lake Como is one of the loveliest and most romantic places I have visited. Enjoying the lake from the water’s edge is a delight, but on my second day there, I set off on an adventure that would give me an entirely different perspective. Perched high above the town of Cadenabbia – located almost directly across the lake from Varenna – is the Church of San Martino, to which you can trek for breathtaking views.
Varenna has lovely spots for enjoying lakeside dining.
For a bit of perspective, Lake Como is shaped like an inverted Y, with three slender branches that converge at Bellagio, one of the lake’s more illustrious resort towns. If you were standing at the tip of Bellagio looking out onto the lake, the town of Cadenabbia is to your left – 10 minutes by ferry – and Varenna is about 15 minutes to your right. It’s hard to fully appreciate the lake’s interesting geography until you see it from above.
With Varenna as my home base, I journeyed to Cadenabbia via Bellagio because the ferries run more frequently to and from Bellagio than between Varenna and Cadenabbia directly. Being early morning and at the start of the off season, the short ride was blissfully quiet and offered a perfect vantage point for taking in the beauty of the lake and the towns sprinkled on its shores. I planned to lay over in Bellagio on my way back for a little shopping and gelato in the afternoon.
The ferry from Varenna to Bellagio was practically empty at 8am!
View of Bellagio from Lake Como.
View of Varenna from Lake Como.
The Trek to San Martino
It takes about an hour on foot to reach San Martino from the ferry dock in Cadenabbia, a little longer if you linger in spots like I did. In places, the hike is steep, but the path is well-maintained, safe, and not overly challenging. While tourists and locals alike enjoy the excursion, it never gets too crowded.
The ferry pulling into Cadenabbia.
You start on the busy road that runs along the lake, turning right after getting off the ferry, then take a left at the Hotel Britannia. At this point, you’re on a regular paved street, walking through a residential area that begins to climb into the steep mountainside.
Follow the set of stairs along via Mazzini, and watch for signs to the church – it can be easy to go off course. Turning right on via Tommaso Grossi, you’ll pass by the Church of Santi Nabore e Felice built early in the 18th century.
The Church of Santi Nabore e Felice.
In just a few minutes you’ll come to the historic village of Griante, where you might fantasize about owning a small vacation home. There’s a rustic and perfectly charming bar, Vecchia Torre, which is a good spot to stop for a beer on the way back down, as well as a local art gallery with unique and original paintings.
The Bar Vecchia Torre seemed like a great spot to grab a beer; unfortunately, I was there on a Tuesday and everything was closed.
The portico to Griante – pedestrians only!
The lovely art gallery in Griante.
After leaving Griante and passing by the pretty Church of San Rocco (yes, another church – this is Italy after all!), you’ll need to take the narrow path that veers off to the right. The walk starts to feel more pastoral, and the view opens up to green space that descends steeply down to the lake with a few homes and the occasional swimming pool tucked into the hillside. Birds soared gracefully above me, and at one point the sound of cowbells led me to a pair of grazing donkeys. The path here is rougher, cobbled with round stones impacted into the dirt. I highly recommend wearing hiking boots, or at least supportive sneakers.
Church of San Rocco
Be on the lookout for signs to San Martino . . . they are not always where you need them to be, but when they are, they’re helpful!
The lovely countryside as I left Griante proper.
A little more than halfway to San Martino, you’ll come to Alpini’s Chapel, dedicated to the Alpini Italian Mountain Soldiers, who to this day make up a branch of the Italian Army specializing in mountain operations. Noticing the impressive lake view, picnic table, and benches, I mistook the chapel for my final destination until a German family who shared the lovely vista with me confirmed I still had further to go. (Good thing I had some company!)
Along the remainder of the trail – about 20 minutes – you’ll enjoy stunning views of the lake below. Be sure to stay on the main path – there are at least a couple of narrow offshoots that look inviting, but I’m not sure where they go.
The trail as you’re approaching San Martino.
Views of Lake Como from Above
Nearing the end of the trail, it’s impossible to miss San Martino. You’ll see the wide building with its single bell tower ahead and then come to a fence with an entrance gate. Plan to stay at least half an hour. If you brought something to eat, picnic tables and benches await on the grassy plateau to the right of the church.
Approaching San Martino, there’s an expansive grassy area with picnic tables and benches to enjoy the view.
When I was there, the church building was closed, but look inside if it happens to be open. Of course, the real reward here is the stunning views of the lake. Wander around to the other side of the property to experience different vantage points and take in the splendor of Lake Como from above – you’ll be glad for the change in perspective.
