Tourists flock year-round to Lake Tahoe for mountain fun and adventure. But the Sierra Nevada region of Northern California is huge and home to many other worthwhile destinations that will connect you to the Golden State’s natural beauty and rich history. One of those destinations is Graeagle.
Located about 45 minutes north of Truckee and an hour from Reno, this former mill town of less than a thousand sits in the Plumas National Forest. Hundreds of nearby mountain lakes, creeks, and trails make Graeagle a popular spot for summer outdoor recreation.
Compared to Lake Tahoe, Graeagle is quieter – the kind of place to which a writer might escape for productive solitude and outdoor enthusiasts go to avoid the crowds. Cell coverage was spotty during my visit, and there were no chain supermarkets or strip malls in sight. Graeagle isn’t exactly off the grid, but it sure feels like you’re far away from it all . . . in the best possible way, of course.
What to do in Graeagle
While Graeagle is enjoyable any time of year, warm-weather recreation is the main draw. Here are some of the highlights you’ll find in this beautiful part of the Sierra.
In and Around Graeagle
The heart of Graeagle is small, and you’ll know you’re in it when you come to a cluster of red, wood-frame buildings along both sides of Route 89. Within this short stretch, you can grab a bite to eat at one of the quaint cafes, peruse art galleries, pick up necessities at the town’s iconic, century-old general store, cap off a round of mini-golf with a soft-serve cone, or book a trail ride at Graeagle Stables.
The Graeagle Millpond in the town center is popular with families, offering fishing, swimming, BBQing, sunbathing, and a summer concert series with local performers.
Golfers will enjoy an afternoon on the links at the nearby 72-par, championship Graeagle Meadows Golf Course. This is just one of the greens in the area that landed Graeagle on Golf Digest’s list of “Best Places to Play.”
Neighboring Blairsden is small and close enough to Graeagle to feel like part of the same community. You’ll find gourmet dining in a comfortable, mountain setting at the Grizzly Grill, family fare at Gumba’s Family Pizza, and local beers at the Brewing Lair of the Lost Sierra.
Gold Lake Highway/Lakes Basin Recreation Area
Between Highway 49 and Graeagle is a stretch of road called Gold Lake Highway that runs through the Lakes Basin Recreation Area at the southern edge of Plumas County. Off this road are dozens of mountain lakes, most of them accessible by hiking, horseback, or mountain bike. A loop trail connects several of the lakes, and there’s even a segment of the Pacific Crest Trail that passes through. Dog lovers will be happy to know their four-legged friends are welcome, as the National Forest allows dogs on most trails as long as they are on leash.
The largest of the lakes in this picturesque area is Gold Lake, with several dozen campsites and a boat launch. Closer to Graeagle is the much smaller Smith Lake, which has a nice area for backpack camping by the water’s edge and a moderate-intensity loop trail (about 4 miles) with waterfalls, creeks, and beautiful vistas.
Ambitious hikers can trek from Graeagle to Mills Peak. At just under 14 miles out and back, it’s an all-day affair that rewards with fantastic views from the 7,061-foot summit.
Off Gold Lake Highway are a number of impressive waterfalls, with Fern Falls and Frazier Falls each within 20 minutes of Graeagle. Both are easy to access and good options if you don’t have time for a long hike or want to take in a final activity before heading out.
Plumas-Eureka State Park
Five miles from Graeagle along Johnsville Road is Plumas-Eureka State Park, which surrounds the former mining community of Johnsville. The park features unmatched landscapes, a network of hiking trails leading to four lakes, and a 67-site campground along Jamison Creek underneath towering pines. The 1.7-mile Madora Lake loop trail is particularly popular and an easy way for families with younger children to enjoy the area’s natural beauty.
Photo Credit: Jim Gray on Flickr
For a history lesson, be sure to visit the park’s indoor-outdoor museum, which includes early gold mining equipment and relics, a blacksmith shop, a partially restored stamp mill, and a replica of a miner’s home. Every July, park docents don period attire and recreate life during Gold Discovery Days.
Winter activities abound here as well, with a network of trails available for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and sledding.
Lake Davis
About a 15-minute drive northeast of Graeagle in the town of Portola is Lake Davis. While I prefer the ruggedness of the Lakes Basin area, this lake is bigger, it’s accessible by car, and a bit easier to get out on the water.
From J&J’s Grizzly Store, you can rent aluminum fishing boats, kayaks, and paddleboards or purchase camping or fishing needs you may have forgotten. Ideal for birding and wildlife viewing, there is an eight-mile hiking trail along the east and south shores of the lake, and plans are in the works to extend it around the entire lake.
On your way back from the lake, train fans and history buffs should stop at the world-renowned Western Pacific Railroad Museum, where visitors are invited to climb aboard a collection of rail cars and locomotives and drive a diesel locomotive.
Where to Stay
The Graeagle area has a wide range of comfortable and well-priced accommodations from which to choose. Camping is a big draw here, with plenty of options for sleeping under the stars. Many visitors also rent lakefront homes or rustic cabins in the forest.
During our visit, we stayed at a lovely, boutique resort called the Chalet View Lodge with a pool, nine-hole golf course, and fishing pond onsite.
In and around Graeagle, there are also plenty of cozy B&Bs, golf course condos, and lodges, like the Gray Eagle Lodge, that are tucked in the Plumas National Forest, with easy access to its alpine lakes and trails.
Getting to Graeagle
The easy way to get to Graeagle from the San Francisco Bay Area and Sacramento is to take Interstate 80 to Route 89. The more adventurous and scenic way, however, is to travel on the back roads.
On the way up to Graeagle we drove along Route 49, stopping for lunch in the charming town of Downieville at the confluence of the Downie and Yuba rivers. From there, we continued on 49 along the Yuba River to the Gold Lake Highway and into Graeagle.
On the way back, we took a different route, which seriously blew me away. From Graeagle, we headed northwest on Highway 89/70, then cut off on Highway 70 to travel south along the Feather River Canyon. This stretch of road between Quincy and Oroville is breathtaking in so many ways and serves as the lowest-elevation east-west passageway through the Sierra Nevada.
You’ll have non-stop views of the North Fork of the Feather River as it tumbles through the steep granite canyon and marvel at the engineering feats achieved with the tunnels, bridges, and hydroelectric power plants along the way. It’s no surprise this road is one of the most popular scenic drives in the state of California.
Feature Photo Credit: @oaktownjohnnyg on Flickr
2 comments
Sounds like a great outdoor adventure!
It was thank you!
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